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Scottish Winter Mountaineering

Scottish winter mountaineering...Sunset in the Cairngorms National Park

Scrambling & Climbing

In addition to the techniques taught in the Winter Skills course we look at the use of the ice axe, ice hammer and crampons for scrambling. We will also have a go at some easy snow climbing using basic rope work and setting up belays on snow, ice and rock.

Rope Work & Belaying

Easter Winter Mountaineering video clip here

Basic Rope Work

You will be shown various methods of using the rope in exposed ground for overcoming the odd rock/ice step and cornice. You will also be given the opportunity to practise falling and holding falls using waist belays and belay devices. The philosophy is simple, if you don't practise and trust it, you will never have full (not fool!) confidence in using it and that will severely limit your future progress. We will also look at the pros and cons of moving roped together and using stomper's (looks good but is it safe?). Finally, if you don't succeed with that cornice you'll be shown how to escape using lowers and abseils. Like summer scrambling if you are experienced and confident it is not always essential to use a rope for winter mountaineering, though at times it is definitely advisable!

Winter Mountaineering course March 2002 YouTube video here

Snow and Ice belays

Climbing Jacob's Ladder

The different types of snow and ice anchors will be shown and practised. We'll look at horizontal, vertical and T axe belays, snow mushrooms, ice screws, threads and dead men and how to construct a bucket seat!  We look at the usual summer rock anchors and their limitations in winter conditions. The placement and removal of pegs is also discussed (pitons)

Weather, Navigation, Avalanche Assessment, Route Finding and use of Guide Book!

Every year mountaineers and climbers come to grief getting to or returning from there days objective. In winter, streams, lochs and paths may be covered by deep snow drifts and completely buried. Detailed route finding becomes very important for conserving energy, especially in deeper snow. Skilful route finding enables you to use the minimum of energy, maximizes your potential for the day and avoid dangerous avalanche prone areas or long detours because a river is in spate. Once you get to the foot of your objective we'll then show you how to use the guide book!

Sample Advanced Winter Mountaineering Programme

The following schedule is for guidance only and will be amended to make the best use of snow and weather conditions. Each course is individually tailored to the needs and aspirations of the participants.

Experience & Fitness required: Regular summer hill walkers with a good level of fitness and stamina.

• Day 1: Briefing on course, weather, avalanche reports. Checking and issuing of safety equipment and the fitting of crampons to boots before setting off to the Cairngorm ski area for instruction on ice axe skills such as emergency braking , step cutting, kicking steps, use of crampons and basic navigation techniques.( old waterproofs useful during self arrest practise! )

• Day 2: Briefing on avalanche awareness and weather before setting of to the Northern Corries, Cairngorm to consolidate and put into practise the previous days skills. The main emphasis of day two will be on micro navigation techniques, avalanche assessment, emergency survival procedures, the construction of snow shelters such as igloos, graves and snow holes and emergency rope work.

• Day 3: Consolidation of previous days skills. The day will be spent looking at the construction of belays and basic rope work with time spent practising belaying and holding falls before the ascent of a grade one gully such as Jacob's Ladder or Aladdin's Coulor. You will also be shown how to set up up an easy abseil using snow bollards etc

• Day 4: Climbing, Scrambling axe and crampon technique coaching as well as the refining of rope work and belay construction. The practise and instruction is done during the climbing. This gives you the opportunity to refine your skills in the real stressful situation under very close supervision. A variety of grade 1/2 climbs will be attempted such as the Aladdin's Mirror, Fiacaill Ridge etc.

• Day 5: The main emphasis of the day will be going out, climbing, enjoying the mountains and refining techniques. Examples of climbs enjoyed in the past in late season include Angel Ridge on Braeriach; Liathach in Torridon; Carn Mor Dearg Arete on Ben Nevis; Aonach Eagach Ridge Glencoe. Evening farewell celebration.

Interested...but would like to see who attends our winter courses and what our winter skills courses are all about...then click here to view the  WinterNet Scotland photo archives. Many of the photos and our popular YouTube videos are taken during our courses. Also see what the press say here!

You can also download our WinterNet wallpaper and free Webshots screen saver here

See our client photo album here! or some winter climbing tales here at www.marmotte.co.uk