Basic Climbing Knots

Before attending any of Talisman’s Mountaineering or Climbing courses you should be thoroughly familiar with the following three basic knots. You will be expected to be able to tie them blindfold with gloves on in the middle of a Scottish blizzard...so you have been warned!

Figure-of-Eight Knot

The Figure-of-Eight knot is probably the most useful of all climbing knots. It is easy to tie, easy to check, fairly easy to undo after a loading and puts the least stress on the rope when tied properly. It can be tied anywhere in the rope, but if it's near the end, it should be secured with a stopper knot to prevent the knot from un-doing itself. Finally if you do mis-tie the knot you usually end up with a safe knot such as the overhand or figure-of-nine.

There are generally two methods used to tie a figure of eight knot.

The first method (1) is used when a piece of equipment is clipped into the loop, the second (2) when the knot is used to tie into something, for example, a climbing harness.

1) Figure-of-Eight on the Bight

2) Re-threaded Figure-of-Eight

The above re-threaded method is usually used to tie into a climbing harness by making a figure-of-eight on the single rope about a metre from the end. Then thread the end through the harness following the knot back through itself. Finish off with a stopper to get rid of the tail end.

Clove Hitch

The clove hitch is easily adjusted when in place, although not a particularly strong knot it is ideal for adjusting belays. If one side of the knot is to be loaded, place the diagonal underneath. If both sides are to be loaded, place the diagonal at the top. Tighten before loading as it may slip if loaded when loose.

Italian or Munter Friction Hitch

A useful knot for belaying or abseiling with minimal equipment and can be a real life saver if you ever drop your abseil or belay device. For belaying or abseiling the only additional equipment usually needed is a large pear shaped HMS carabiner. It does tend to kink the rope though.