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Winter Skills Kit List

Personal clothing...

  • Waterproof shell mountain jacket: Breathable materials such as Nikwax Paramo, Event and Gortex are ideal. See the excellent BMC info sheet on clothing here
  • Waterproof over trousers or salopettes: Make sure they fit over your big winter boots!
  • Gaiters: These are essential to avoid wet cold feet. Standard front opening or yeti type ideal.
  • Gloves and mitts plus several spares: I find that old fashioned pre shrunk oiled wool mitts such as dachstiens are still the warmest and are easily repaired! (Mitts/gloves should have elastic shock cord  wrist loops to stop them being dropped and blown away)
  • Inner gloves for performing more delicate tasks while wearing mitts.
  • Hat and Balaclava: One that covers the ears plus a separate balaclava. The Lowe alpine shell hats are good and less itchy than the traditional woolly balaclava.
  • Warm fleece trousers/salopettes/heavyweight ronhills etc. (polyester NOT *cotton).
  • Warm fleece jacket/sweater: Fleece/pile or wool plus spare, Buffalo and other belay jackets are ideal.
  • Thermal long underwear: Quick drying top and long johns such as Helly Hansen, not cotton.
  • Socks: Two or three pairs of loop stitch wool or equivalent, not *cotton mix.

* Cotton retains moisture and is good for keeping you cool in hot summer conditions. In the winter you require fabrics such as pile and fleece which dry quickly and keep you warm even when wet. After more than a decade of teaching winter survival courses in the artic Cairngorms and despite all the great advances in clothing technology, I still find wool is the warmest and definitely the best option for socks and gloves.


Personal equipment...

  • Boots: Four season suitable for 12 point articulated crampons are essential (leather or plastic can be hired). See the BMC info sheet on boots & crampons here
  • Rucksack 40-60 ltr.: At least 60-70 litre required for expedition ( water proof liner or builder's rubble bag ).
  • Map and compass: Silva 4 type compass ideal. Map case and map or preferably laminated 1:50,000 Cairngorm map.  (OS 1:50,000 No.36 Grantown and Cairngorm)
  • Wristwatch with stopwatch function.
  • Survival bag: Orange polythene Karrimor or Gortex bivy bag ideal.
  • First aid kit: Personal with blister kit etc.
  • Lip salve and sun block?
  • Whistle: For emergency alpine distress signal.
  • Head torch & spare battery and bulb. (the Petzl range is recommended)
  • Ski goggles: Low light double glazed for blizzard conditions.
  • Glacier sunglasses: To protect from snow blindness.
  • Emergency rations.
  • Flask/water bottle & Packed lunch.
  • Ice axe, crampons and helmet: if you have them (can be hired for free including the latest Grivel Airtech Crampons).

If you are considering buying new kit please phone us first to discuss the purchase to avoid expensive mistakes! For advice and a wide selection of kit we recommend the family run MacMountaineering of Inverness who can provide mail order as well as Cairngorm Mountain Sport in Aviemore.

*Old waterproofs to protect expensive breathable waterproofs when ice axe braking!*

Those who wear expensive designer Gortex waterproofs may prefer to bring an old set of waterproofs for self-arrest practice as it involves a lot of sliding about on the snow.


Snow-holing / Survival Courses (additions)...

  • Four season sleeping bag (or 3 season in a snow hole!) karrimat & bivy bag ( breathable ).
  • Stove, candles, lighter, mug, bowl and spoon.
  • Spare socks, clothing, plastic bags, toilet paper.
  • Snow shovels, saw, avalanche probes and transceivers: if you have them.

Climbing and Mountaineering Course (additions)...

  • Technical axe and hammer with wrist loops.
  • Helmet & harness with adjustable leg loops.
  • Belay plate and HMS screw gate krab.
  • At least two spare HMS screw gate krabs
  • Two 8 ft slings (120 cm length) with screw gate krabs.
  • One 16 ft sling (240 cm length) with HMS screw gate krabs.
  • Rack of gear for rock and ice; ropes etc.

(Technical equipment is supplied free on introductory courses if you don't already have it. On more advanced courses you are expected to have and use your own equipment!).

Clients are encouraged to use their own kit if they have it!


Personal Kit...

  • Wash kit / toothbrush / towel etc.
  • Casual clothes, warm jacket. change of underwear!
  • Optional: Trainers, tracksuit, swimwear, rock boots, camera, film, chocolate etc.

Fitness...

The more prepared you are for your course the more you will enjoy it. Indulge in some regular exercise several months before attending your course. Hill walking (Munro bagging) with a large pack is the best preparation for the course, but cycling, jogging, swimming, etc. are all valuable training. You will probably be out each day for 6-8 hours carrying a 15 kg pack in winter conditions and with some standing around in blizzard conditions so be prepared.


FAQ's...

Q. For the people that need to hire gear, such as 4 season boots (plastics, etc) from the stores you mentioned, when would be a good time to do this ?

A. Phone the shops a few weeks before the course date to ensure that they keep your sizes in stock.

The phone numbers for winter mountaineering boot hire shops in Aviemore are as follows below...mention your on a winter mountaineering course with Talisman Activities and you should get some discount:

Q. Will there be enough time on the Saturday morning to buy or hire extra kit ?

A. There's enough time on the Sat morning to get the hire boots sorted out from the shops in Aviemore as they usually open before 09:00 for ski equipment hire .

Q. Can you hire a Bivy Bag ? How essential is this outside the Snow Holing night?

A. You will all require as a minimum orange plastic survival bags...the disadvantage of the poly bags are that of condensation inside the bags soaking your sleeping bags...so they are a lot less comfortable but survivable for the one night! Unfortunately no one I know hires them but cheap breathable ones are available for purchase from Alpkit or from Army Navy Stores for 2nd hand government surplus in lovely camouflaged colours! The Gortex TM ones are very expensive.

Q. Do I need a 4/5 season down sleeping bag?

A. For the snow holing courses you require as a minimum a 3 season synthetic bag as it is only about zero degrees in a well constructed snow hole. Remember you can wear your spare clothing. However, everyone is different and the warmer the bag is the better you will sleep though I often end up too hot in a 5 season bag so sometimes prefer a lightweight 2/3 season Rab one when climbing! Please note that even expensive 5 season down bags will need to be kept out of contact with dampness or they will lose all of their insulation whereas a cheaper synthetic bag will still retain some warmth.....even if you end up sleeping in a puddle!

Q. What breathable waterproof would you recommend apart from Gortex?

A. I'd highly recommend the Nikwax Paramo gear as it protects you from the worst the weather can throw at you, is extremely durable and far far more breathable and comfortable than breathable laminates such as Gortex....you can literally come off the hill and into the pub and be just as comfortable as in your ordinary street clothes.


Essential Reading...

  • The MC of S 'Winter Essentials' leaflet can be found off site here or here on site.

  • The Scottish Avalanche Information Service (SAIS) leaflet can be found viewed here on site.

Recommended Reading...

  • A Chance in a Million (Avalanches)-Bob Barton & Blythe Wright
  • Cold Climbs-Ken Wilson, Dave Alcock & John Barry
  • Handbook of Climbing-Alan Fyffe & Ian Peter
  • Mountaincraft & Leadership-Eric Langmuir
  • Mountain Navigation-Pete Cliff
  • Mountain Skills Handbook-Pete Hill & Stuart Johnston
  • Modern Rope Techniques-Nigel Shepherd
  • Scotland's Winter Mountains-Martin Moran
  • Worthwhile reading include the SMC district guides to the Cairngorms & Ben Nevis.
  • Other useful leaflets can be viewed here on the MC of S website.

On climbing and mountaineering courses you should also be thoroughly familiar with  knots such as the Figure-of-Eight, Clove Hitch and Italian Hitch. Please refer to our basic climbing knots page here


Insurance...

"Climbing and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement." (BMC Participation Statement) We are covered by professional liability insurance but you are responsible for organising your own CANCELLATION, CURTAILMENT & ACCIDENT COVER


Travel & Accommodation Links

Accommodation...


Travel...

General Info on the Cairngorms..

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Updated  15/02/2010