Talisman's Mountain Diary

Off to the Alps until September!

noreply@blogger.com (Ron Walker) — Thu, 18 Jun 2009 20:14:00 +0000

Yes getting ready and packing SPLUD the Talisman Bascamp for the annual staff training trip to the Alps!!! Cold and windy in the Cairngorms at the moment.
Just saw this great bike video filmed in the Scottish capital in Edinburgh at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z19zFlPah-o
Well impressed with the Danny MacAskill's skill, balance, the bikes wheel strength and the music selection - enjoy, I certainly did!!! Originally from Skye I now realise I used to see him in Aviemore doing his stunts in the landscaped area opposite Tesco. See http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NZ5H03auA6I and visit Danny's website at http://www.dannymacaskill.com/

Coire an Lochain picture

noreply@blogger.com (Ron Walker) — Mon, 15 Jun 2009 11:50:00 +0000

Ben Nevis for charity

noreply@blogger.com (Ron Walker) — Fri, 12 Jun 2009 11:25:00 +0000

On Wednesday it was raining and sleeting in the east and dry and bright in the west which was ideal as Cormac and I climbed Ben Nevis! I was covering for Fi for Taylor Made Trekking. Cormac had wanted to trek up Ben Nevis in order to raise money for a hospice in Jersey where he is from. It was Cormac's first mountain climb and visit to Scotland.

He had been training in a gym since the winter, lost over two stone, and had trekked over 26 miles on flat trails but admitted that it was touch and go and probably the hardest thing he had ever done. There were not many big mountains on his home island! It looks like he's hooked on the Scottish mountains now and working out new training regimes using steps for his next challenge!

Lot's three peak charity events running too and unfortunately lots of rubbish, tissues, bottles, can, sweet wrapping etc just being dropped or buried by the side of the path.

A lot of expensive helicopter work was going on to repair and improve section of the Ben Nevis track especially just after the halfway lochain junction and the Red Burn and generally the track is a lot better than it was.

BTW Tower Ridge is clear of snow though the big gully's aren't

Winter skills and snowholes in June!

noreply@blogger.com (Ron Walker) — Sat, 06 Jun 2009 17:52:00 +0000

Fresh snow and light blizzards on the tops. The Cairngorm snow level was around 700 metres this morning.

I was looking after Fi's summer navigation course today although it felt more like a winter skills course in December.

We had to be quite careful with our route choice on the navigation legs due to the amount of fresh snow and slippery conditions underfoot. It was too dangerous to cross any steep snow covered grassy slopes or areas of old icy snow so we headed up onto the plateau from Coire an t-Sneachda via the old Fiacaill ridge snow fence track to Point 1141 and then onto the summit of Cairngorm.

A few obligatory summit photos before heading down and across to the snowhole site in Ciste Mhearid. It was good fun navigating in near whiteout conditions, avoiding the fresh cornices, crevasses, dodgy snow bridges and avalanche prone snow on our route to our summer snow hole.

Everyone was impressed by the amount and depth of old and fresh snow and the hard icy snow shelters - yes Scotland in June!!!

Fresh snow in the Cairngorms

noreply@blogger.com (Ron Walker) — Fri, 05 Jun 2009 16:43:00 +0000

As the post says...!

Stunning climbing conditions in the Highlands

noreply@blogger.com (Ron Walker) — Tue, 02 Jun 2009 11:15:00 +0000

The warm dry settled weather has meant ideal rock climbing conditions in the cool north facing crags and sweltering condition on some of the more sunny aspects! Many of mountain crags and their approaches are now very dry and pleasant to climb on whereas some of the lower sheltered south facing crags are a bit too hot!

We've spent the past few days climbing in the NW at Diabaig and Sgurr A' Chaorachain. The midges haven't really been a problem during the day and when climbing in the sun - in the evenings on the other hand is a different story...!

Surprisingly on Sunday we more or less had Diabaig to ourselves and climbed Routes 1 and 2. I hadn't climbed any of those routes for over 10 years and was pleased to find the rock friction was still as good as I remembered and not as polished as many other routes I've been back to. Route 1 has now been upgraded to HVS from VS. Fi led the first pitch commenting on the overgrown holly bush on the crux overhang...! The direct start above the belay on the second pitch that I fell off on has thankfully now being upgraded UK 5c rather than the original 4c in my old guide! The abseil tat and mallions are good btw. More details and photos at http://www.marmotte.co.uk/blog/2009/06/diabaig.html

On the Monday we walked in to have a look at Cioch Corner Superdirect on Sgurr A' Chaorachain. We didn't like the look of the wet seeps and vegetation at the start of the lower tier so we decided to climb Cioch Corner on the upper tier. We met a number of teams heading for the Cioch Nose including James G and were pleased that we would have our proposed route to ourselves.

However a route finding error without a decent guidebook description or topo saw us climbing a new direct start to the Cioch Nose through the overhangs right of the Direct Start and meeting up with the others! Great layback climbing through the roof once I'd cleared the vegetation from some gear placements on our new line! We then followed the immaculate upper sections of Cioch Nose to the top before descending the gully back to our packs.

On our descent down the gully we replaced some of the abseil tat and were amazed that folk were abbing off old rusty wires and a rotten peg when just below right in the photo there was a good solid rock flake that wasn't being used! We put some rope round the flake with a couple of the best salvaged krabs and abbed off that - see photo above. More photos can be found at http://www.marmotte.co.uk/blog/2009/06/sgurr-chaorachain-monday-1st-june.html

Unfortunately it looks like winter is returning the hill tops from later on today with a dramatic drop in temperatures!

An absolute scorcher

noreply@blogger.com (Ron Walker) — Fri, 29 May 2009 21:32:00 +0000

It was an absolute scorcher today. It felt more like climbing in Spain rather than Strathconon, north of Inverness. Fi and I climbed the aptly name Salamander, Creag Ghlas on sun baked rough slabs. The route is an absolute cracker by the way and the stunning 5th pitch should not be missed. Today dehydration and heat stroke being a real issue due to the heat. We got back to our sacks and my scotch egg was nicely cooked, my Spanish chocolate mush along with a nice burning hot bottle of coke to quench our thirsts! The good weather is to continue through the weekend. See Fi's blog for more photos at http://www.marmotte.co.uk/blog/2009/05/salamander-creag-ghlas.html

Nice sunny climbing in the NE

noreply@blogger.com (Ron Walker) — Sun, 24 May 2009 20:34:00 +0000

Pleasant climbing today at Cummingston though compared to a few years ago very few folk seem to be leading these days but were bouldering or top-roping... More info at http://www.marmotte.co.uk/blog/2009/05/cummingston-and-more.html
Over the past few days I've been looking out some of the old Winternet Scotland photos and have uploaded a few onto my UKC photo album at http://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/author.html?id=16319
I've still to add a few from our alpine trips - the problem being way to much choice and well in excess of 50,000 photo's and video clips due to digital camera technology!!

Video Channel Subscription

noreply@blogger.com (Ron Walker) — Sat, 23 May 2009 15:55:00 +0000

Last weeks hot Cuillin capers

noreply@blogger.com (Ron Walker) — Sat, 16 May 2009 18:47:00 +0000

On Saturday the 9th of May it was wild and very snowy on the Scottish hills but by Monday the 10th of May it was completely calm, sunny and very hot!
As promised earlier during a lovely meal in the Sligachan Hotel, David had organised the good weather for us and the snow cleared off the main ridge leaving lovely dry hot rock for us all to enjoy...
On Monday we again met up with David and Liz and Alistair and Jane. Before heading off with David and Alistair for a climb up the Skye Cuillin's famous 'In Pin' - the hardest Munro.
We've climbed a number of times with David but it was Alistair's first time rock climbing with ropes and a harness.
An early start meant no queues and a pleasant hike up onto the Cuillin ridge. We then put on our harnesses and tied onto the rope before Fi under my supervision guided everyone up the In Pin - before the crowds and the BBC film crew arrived with Nick Crane!
After abseiling off we had plenty of time to enjoy the fantastic views, weather and bag a few Munro tops before heading back down off the Cuillin ridge for tea.
During the week I was mentoring Fi for her MIA and had the the video camera to hand. A few YouTube videos including climbing on the Inaccessible Pinnacle (In Pin) the UK's hardest Munro summit will no doubt appear soon!
See http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=03tsZJ38MIM

The weather forecast was good until Thursday so ideal for Fi and I to do lots of Scottish hot rock climbing. First on Shangri La and a few easier routes.

On Thursday we waited until the warm sun hit the cold NW facing cliffs of Sron Na Ciche at around 1.30 pm and then climbed Cioch West, Cioch Corner and the Integrity combination giving over 300 metres of sustained climbing on imaculate warm sunny rock before abbing back down.

On Friday the warm stable weather system broke down as the winds increase and the rain arrived at our campsite. The weather had turned colder, windier, wetter so we returned home to the Eastern Highlands, Aviemore and the Cairngorms where on Saturday it felt like winter had returned!

For guiding on the Cuillin ridge, hiring a gude for the Inaccessible Pinnacle (In Pin) or scrambling and rock climbing on Skye see http://www.talisman-activities.co.uk/summer/guiding_on_skye.htm

It's May so winter returns!

noreply@blogger.com (Ron Walker) — Sun, 03 May 2009 10:33:00 +0000

Looking at the Cairngorms this morning you would be forgiven for thinking it was November or December rather than May! No doubt the remaining snow fields and gullies will be very icy.
There are still large snowfields below and on the approach to several of the classic rock climbs...

Late April snow conditions

noreply@blogger.com (Ron Walker) — Sat, 25 Apr 2009 19:00:00 +0000

A number of the grade one gullies such as Jacob's, Aladdin's, Central and the Couloir are still complete with steep snowy approaches to some of the popular classic rock routes.

Stunning alpine weather

noreply@blogger.com (Ron Walker) — Sun, 19 Apr 2009 20:04:00 +0000

With the overnight frosts and clear blue skies conditions have been truly alpine. Many buttresses are bone dry for rock climbing and at the same time a number of the grade 1 and 2 gullies are still complete and have been in perfect winter climbing condition until late afternoon!
Today Fi took Gareth up Pygmy Ridge while I filmed. Despite the dazzling sun and warm afternoon temperatures the clear skies and overnight frost provide ideal neve for crampons on the approach up Central Gully. At the base of Pygmy Ridge we got out the rope and packed away the crampons and axes for an enjoyable climb up the lovely dry rocky ridge onto the plateau. After lunch Fi and I put the crampons back on and descended a banked and still frozen Jacob's Ladder to the foot of a sunny Mess of Pottage. With our axes and crampons stashed in our rucksacks and our big boots still on we headed up the line of Pot of Gold. This provided great fun and ideal alpine training on the now warm rock. Videos later...

More details on Fi's blog at http://www.marmotte.co.uk/blog/2009/04/pygmy-ridge-and-pot-of-gold.html

Easter Sunday's Coire an Lochain video

noreply@blogger.com (Ron Walker) — Tue, 14 Apr 2009 23:49:00 +0000

Sunday's winte climbing video can be found at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UdcSJvxdMBE The date on the video should be the 12th of April and not the 11th!

The 'Half a Gully' off piste skiing video above can also be viewed at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7ZLQP8WGlk

A great steep ski descent video from Angel Peak on the same weekend can be seen at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDIasgLZobA

Sunday's rock climbing on Pygmy Ridge video can be found at ******** soon!

Under the Lochain ice!

noreply@blogger.com (Ron Walker) — Mon, 13 Apr 2009 19:31:00 +0000

Underwater ice video at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8bQ5zV_7lE
Another sunny day with good icy snow though the SE wind was a lot stronger and colder than expected for our planned classic rock climbing route... We spent a few hours sheltered from the cold wind watching, videoing and photographing the coire's lochan ice sparkling and bobbing in the sun!
This gave us the ideal opportunity to field test the Pentax W60 camera's underwater and freezer proof capabilities and get some amazing still and HD video footage for the YouTube video above.

Good sun, snow ice, skiing and rock climbing!

noreply@blogger.com (Ron Walker) — Sun, 12 Apr 2009 19:59:00 +0000

Clear skies and a overnight frost meant fantastic snow ice conditions in the corries. Cramponning up Coire an Lochain's approach slopes was a joy and we had the place almost to ourselves.
The only two other climbers in the coire were Mark B and Al who headed up the Vent and the top of Milky Way while we headed up Y-Gully Right. There was good neve and ice on the steeps in Y-Gully and in the Vent which would take ice screws.
I underestimated the cornice in Y-Gully and spent some anxious moments hacking through the sun softened overhang while we moved together with runners...!
We had an early lunch on the sunny snowy plateau and videoed Mark and Al ;-)
Later we descended into Coire an t-Sneachda grateful of the crampons and climbed back up a still icy Central LH Gully and onto a nice dry Pygmy Ridge. A couple of climbers were in the Runnel which had good neve and ice in the chimney.
The snow surface was just starting to soften by late afternoon which provided just about enough grip for some skiers and boarders to descend half a gully and later Aladdin's Couloir. Climbing and ski descent videos later... See http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UdcSJvxdMBE for Coire an Lochain climbing conditions and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C7ZLQP8WGlk for off piste skiers in Coire an t-Sneachda.
More info and Easter bunnies on Fi's blog at http://www.marmotte.co.uk/blog/2009/04/coire-lochain-and-coire-t-sneachda.html

Quiet in the corries busy in Aviemore

noreply@blogger.com (Ron Walker) — Sat, 11 Apr 2009 20:10:00 +0000

A nice sunny day but with cool gusty winds. The overnight temperatures have been low and the snow icy on high shaded slopes and coire headwalls. The main gully lines are complete and were well frozen overnight. With a similar weather pattern over the next few days the snow on northerly aspects should remain frozen and icy until late on the day. Many of the 'Classic Rock' routes still have snowy approaches and finishes and could be icy on shaded north aspects.

Colder with snow on the tops

noreply@blogger.com (Ron Walker) — Tue, 07 Apr 2009 21:37:00 +0000

The weather's being pretty unsettled recently with some fresh snow on the tops...

I've just uploaded the video snow hole tour above filmed on the 1st April 2009. Most folk find it hard to believe how big some of the group expedition snow shelters can be in Scotland. If you can't see the YouTube video above try clicking the following link.
See http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8fFGKISVY4

Friday's 'Mix of Climbing' video

noreply@blogger.com (Ron Walker) — Mon, 06 Apr 2009 00:02:00 +0000

The 'Mix of Climbing' YouTube video from the 3rd April 2009 can be found at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HD8zM31HO4c A classic sunny spring day ice climbing and rock climbing in the Cairngorms. An early start and five routes climbed. The Runnel, Fingers Ridge, Aladdin's Couloir, Central Gully LH and Pygmy Ridge. With blue skies, good firm neve and ice in the gullies and lovely rough dry rock on the cliffs, condition were near perfect for summer and winter climbing! For more details and photos see http://www.talisman-activities.co.uk/blog/2009/04/sun-fun-rock-and-ice.html and http://www.marmotte.co.uk/blog/2009/04/mix-of-climbing-at-cairngorm.html

Sun, fun, rock and ice

noreply@blogger.com (Ron Walker) — Fri, 03 Apr 2009 20:14:00 +0000

We had a great day ice climbing and rock climbing in the sun. As a bonus we had Coire an t-Sneachda almost to ourselves, found lots of gear and only saw one other party climbing - a happy George Mc from the 'Lodge' sitting at the top of Pygmy Ridge with his client in the sun!

An early sunny start saw us climbing up a lovely icy Runnel, down the Goat Track, up Fingers Ridge, then down an icy Aladdin's Couloir, then on good neve up Central Gully and finally on and up a sunny Pygmy Ridge.

Lots more photos of me and more info on Fi's blog at http://www.marmotte.co.uk/blog/2009/04/mix-of-climbing-at-cairngorm.html

During the climbing I took lots of video clips which I'll put together into a short film and upload later.

Central Gully video

noreply@blogger.com (Ron Walker) — Thu, 02 Apr 2009 21:51:00 +0000

The YouTube video from can be found at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TvRHOrqll48

Another fun climbing day

noreply@blogger.com (Ron Walker) — Wed, 01 Apr 2009 20:59:00 +0000

A lot greyer and windier on the walk in than we expected though the skies soon cleared and the sun again shone - still a cold southerly wind though.

It was the last day of our Winter Mountaineering course so Sue and Fi joined Ken, Angus and myself for the climbing. We headed up to the Trident gully area on softish snow very wary of the big heavy cornice above Central gully...! The snow in Central Gully was a lot softer than the snow in Jacob's Ladder yesterday though still stable and pleasant to climb on.

We all headed up the gully in about four pitches avoiding big cornice by traversing right onto the rib at the top. More photos on Fi's blog at http://www.marmotte.co.uk/blog/2009/04/weather-wasnt-quite-blue-skies-and.html

After packing away the rope and lunch on the plateau we headed over to look at the impressive snow holes in Coire Domhain and the uniquely sculptured outside loo - more photos and videos later!

Breezy walk in but calmer and sunny later

noreply@blogger.com (Ron Walker) — Tue, 31 Mar 2009 19:26:00 +0000

A bit windy to start but it turned into a nice calm sunny day by mid afternoon.
We headed into Coire an t-Sneachda so that Ken and Angus could get the chance to lead their first proper winter route up a wind scoured Jacob's Ladder. The snow was softish on the approach but firm and icy in the main gully line.
Still good snow cover in the main gully lines and on the plateau though it looked and felt like spring lower down. The buttresses are now pretty bare and should soon provide good rock climbing!

A lot warmer today

noreply@blogger.com (Ron Walker) — Mon, 30 Mar 2009 22:53:00 +0000

A lot warmer today with the NC crags looking blacker. Angus, Ken and I spent the day on a small crag in the woods looking at ropework and setting up belays. We're back up on the hill tomorrow so hopefully a few pictures. Fi's uploaded some photos from yesterday. See http://www.marmotte.co.uk/blog/2009/03/lots-of-wind-and-snow.html

Drifting snow and red scoured faces

noreply@blogger.com (Ron Walker) — Sun, 29 Mar 2009 18:05:00 +0000

A nice sunny day but with strong biting SW winds and huge amounts of drifting snow. Ken and Dave were joined today by Kim and Fi in search of the missing rucksack. This was quickly located - no luck with the missing ice axe though.

We all headed up the Coire Cas mesmerised by the huge rivers of sun sparkling spindrift and graupel cascading over the Coire Cas headwall and ridge. Every so often we were buffeted by typhoon like glittering snow devils as we observed ridges of sastruga being created before our very eyes.

Kim and Fi left us as they headed up Coronation Wall into the wind while we contoured around Cairngorm into a calm and sheltered Ciste Mhearid. We had a look at some of the huge snow holes, had lunch, dug avalanche pits near the huge cornice (a very week layer of graupel failed easily when we were digging our pit) and constructed our own emergency shelters.

The winds were a lot stronger in the afternoon as we headed down with hoods up and goggles on. The powder skiing in the Cas and Gunbarrel looked good in the morning though in the afternoon, snow boarders in particular were having a hard time against the wind on the ski area traverse! Other more exposed areas were being scoured down to old icy snow.

In Coire an t-Sneachda quite a few mixed routes were climbed on the rimed rock.